Wes Berry, author and an associate professor of English at Western Kentucky University, hits the Kentucky backroads in search of the best regional treasure: barbecue.
kyBBQ
In a class with fried chicken and the amber spirits that define other traditions, Kentucky barbecue has a rich history of its own. The author writes, “Although that noted Kentucky institution, the barbecue, is not by any means confined to the Bluegrass, yet it is only there that it reaches its happiest development.”
Berry’s intention is for “The Kentucky Barbecue Book” to be an introduction to the regional culinary traditions, as well as serve as a travel guide to seek out the best “mom-and-pop smoked-meat destinations in the Commonwealth.”
He provides a map of Kentucky barbecue regions designating as areas preferring brisket and beef ribs, pork shoulder and vinegar dip, hickory smoked mutton and burgoo, pork shoulder with vinegar-cayenne table sauce – county by county – and while by no means exclusive, it does offer an interesting guide to the variety the region offers.
Providing information on the cuts of meat, varieties of meat, and varieties of wood for the fire, Berry sets up a veritable roadmap for the lovers of all things barbecued – complete with descriptions of authentic and tastebud-worthy side dishes and recipes for the sauces that offer the distinct flavors. Homemade ice cream, buttermilk pie, fried Amish pie, grilled cabbage, cheese grits, various potato salad recipes, and green bean recipes are sprinkled throughout the book. Baked beans, sweet and sour slaw, and signature sauces adorn the pages, and it is with this that Berry admits that a good part of the enjoyment of each meal comes from the folks doing the mixing, firing and cooking.
A section of photographs clearly shows the hard work involved – hauling the wood and meat and laboring over the intense heat and smoke of the fire pits – but it more clearly shows the grins and good times the processes provide.
Pig in a Poke BBQ in Prestonburg is a prime example of a local “haunt.” Berry explains: “It seems to me that if you want family dining, eat downstairs; if you want a lively bar atmosphere, go upstairs. And if you’re opposed to a rowdy bar atmosphere, then go at lunch. People were on good behavior then.” Admits owner Brian Cramer when asked what prompted him to give up his job and open his “joint”: “I love to smoke, I love to smell it. I love to sit and drink a beer and just stare at it ... The beauty of barbecue is that everybody does do things their own different way. Barbecue is a way of life.”
Which place is the best? Berry admits he has given up on a rating system with the hopes that his enthusiasm for the places he writes about will spur readers to venture to them, and come to their own conclusions. But one thing he makes very clear, before filling your tank with gas and traveling the often windy and deserted roads that bring you to some of these restaurants – call ahead. The nature of the beast leads many of these establishments to close up on a moment’s notice. Berry notes: “I wish all these mom-and-pop shops would survive through several generations. Patronize them and they’ll have a better chance. Give fast food the finger. Eat some love.”
With a sense of humor, a deep respect for the traditions reflected, and an honest love of the process – and its result – Berry provides a practical guide to all that is Kentucky barbecue and the mouthwatering meals its practitioners provide.