Lexington, KY - The newest Asian restaurant in town, and possibly the newest restaurant in general, Baan Isaan Thai Gourmet opened during the latter days of October in the former location of Portabella's along North Locust Hill Drive.
"Baan," according to the restaurant's menu, is a Thai word for "house," and Isaan is the name of the northeastern region of Thailand from whence the restaurant's cuisine is modeled. In the past, this region of the country has been separated from northern and central Thailand by the Phetchabun Mountains, and its culture, including its cuisine, has been influenced by neighboring Laos --
the two countries sharing a long border along the Mekong River --
rendering Isaan dishes distinct from the style of food most Western eaters (including this mouth) associate with Thai cuisine. Isaan cooking staples, such as "sticky rice" and large amounts of chiles, are abundant in the restaurant's extensive menu.
Bann Isaan's menu is broken down into multiple sections, especially the entrees, which are arranged into soups and spicy, vegetarian, coconut, wok, noodle and fried rice dishes. Most dishes (priced from $12 -
$19, with a few outliers), aside from the soups, come with either pork or chicken, though there are a few beef or seafood selections, and an assortment of other vegetables, herbs and sauces that makes each dish distinct.
Soup options (priced around $12 - $28, for single portions) include duck soup ($27.50), Isaan grilled pork ($12.75, with sliced pork belly fat with spicy dipping sauce) a traditional seafood soup, and a few other options.
The appetizer selection includes nearly a dozen "salad" options (think noodles and julienned vegetables instead of lettuce, priced $4 - $10), which can include beef, seafood, chicken, pork, and a variety of other ingredients, such as papaya, carrots, cucumber, tomatoes and long beans.
For starters, my guest and I had "som tam isaan" (spicy papaya salad, a "chef's favorite"), which consisted of thinly sliced green papaya and a few other vegetables tossed with fish sauce, and "tu-ey" (a vegetable salad of carrots, cucumber, cabbage and cauliflower, tossed with vinegar and white soy sauce). We enjoyed both of these options, but if you have an unacclimated palate (like me), the fish sauce can be overwhelming.
For dinner, my guest ordered "gai phat met muang" (cashew chicken, $15), which included a large amount of mushrooms, onions, peppers, cauliflower and spring onions and came with steamed rice. I ordered the "tom yam pok tek" (traditional spicy seafood soup, $23), which included shrimp, calamari, oysters, white fish, mushrooms and onions in a delicious tomato and citrus broth. If sinuses are an issue for you this time of the year, an order of this soup will open you right up.
There were many items on the menu I am interested in trying on a return visit. Our bill, prior to tip and tax, came to $54.65 and included an appetizer, two entrees and a dessert.