Lexington, KY - Nestled among the farmlands of Old Richmond Road and boasting a menu that incorporates a number of local products - including wine made from grapes grown on the premises - Jean Farris is one of the most authentically Kentucky dining destinations in the region. Don't expect typical Kentucky fare, however; the food centers on classic French meat and seafood dishes with unusual and intriguing fruit and vegetable-based adornments, such as smoked grape beurre blanc, kumquats and marinated avocados.
Before you even get to the menu, though, the first thing you'll notice about Jean Farris is its stunning backdrop - getting there with enough daylight left to take a half hour walk around the vineyard is highly recommended.
Kentucky may not be known internationally for its wine production, but Jean Farris certainly is, having won more than 40 awards for its wines, with many of those being international competitions. The list includes many expected varietals - Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir -
as well as some blends and surprises: a wine from the state's only Malbec vineyard, for example, and a popular blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc called The Tempest. Wines range from $3 - $14 a glass.
While the wines measure up strongly against other local wines I've tried, for me the real star of Jean Farris is the bistro menu. More than half the single-page menu is dedicated to appetizers (including morel mushrooms with a Sherry crËme fraiche, $11, and Quail Fricasee with savory french toast and forest mushroom cream sauce, $15), salads, charcuterie (house-cured meats and patËs), and cheese, leaving room for only eight entree selections -
of which, I could have confidently ordered just about any. Mouthwatering options included the grilled lamb chops (served with warm potato salad, Fiddlehead ferns and a mint sorghum glaze, $29) and the monkfish (served with lobster morel sauce and a pea and potato cake); even the chicken - a crispy skinned breast with whipped potatoes, Kentucky mushrooms, wilted spinach and a Parmesan cream - was hard to resist. Being an absolute sucker for stuffed pasta dishes, however, I went with the chestnut ravioli, with house-made ricotta, beef tenderloin and forest mushroom cream sauce. To my delight, my guest chose another dish I had been eyeing: seared duck breast with goat cheese croquette, orange-tarragon glaze and braised leeks. Both were brimming with flavor; though the meat on both dishes was slightly overcooked for my tastes, I don't think that's typical of the kitchen, which has been completely on point in every other visit I've made to the bistro.
To back up a bit, we started with some cheese and charcuterie selections ($14 for a pairing of three, which arrived to our table on a wood plank garnished with grilled baguette, mustard, raisins and an apricot glaze), deviled eggs (which incorporated fresh peas, chives and crispy prosciutto) and a salad each (even the house salad is festive, with strawberries and goat cheese; my guest's Caesar salad was surprising, with grilled romaine and a generous heap of capers).
The bistro is located in a building designed to mimic a refabricated barn, but the interior is decked out in subtle but contemporary art, with cozy tables donned in white tablecloths. A covered patio overlooking the vineyard provides a room with a view, but the main dining room is comfortable and inviting in its own right.
Dinner for two, which included three glasses of wine and more food than we could finish, was $119 before tax and tip.