Lexington, KY - The latest addition to west Lexington's burgeoning eat-and-drink corridor on Jefferson Street, Nick Ryan's Saloon is based around the concept of providing affordable, modern American food in a casual-upscale setting - an alternative to both the high-end eateries and casual bar food available in the nearby downtown area. With friendly, relaxed service, tasteful yet minimal decor, and only one item on the dinner menu clocking in over $20 (the filet mignon, $24), the restaurant has succeeded in these aspects, creating a quality menu and atmosphere alike.
On a recent visit, a guest and I were shown to the last open table on a Monday night, and chose to start our evening meal with one of Nick's specialty cocktails. Nick Ryan's takes pride in their drink offerings, with a decent beer selection and a menu of eight specialty cocktails incorporating a host of culinary additives, from grapefruit bitters to Absinthe Rinse. My guest selected the Bourbon and Homemade Ginger (Bulleit Bourbon, ginger syrup, soda, $7) and I chose the Pear Gimlet (spiced pear vodka, lime juice, lemon bitters, $9). The wine list is modest, containing less than 20 bottles ranging in price from $19-36.
For an appetizer, we chose the tuna tartare (rare, sushi grade tuna seasoned with citrus, shallots chives and a potato crisp, $8) and a half dozen raw Penn Cove oysters ($13 - they were a special that evening). Ordering raw seafood in Kentucky can be a risky endeavor, and one that puts the freshness of a restaurant's ingredients to test. Fortunately, Nick Ryan's soared on both accounts. The potato crisp (basically a waffle-cut potato chip) was a heavy and perhaps unnecessary accompaniment to the delicate tartare, but the mignionette and cocktail sauce with the oysters were lovely, and the seafood was as fresh as we could have asked for. Other appetizers on the menu include Thai Peanut Shrimp ($8) and pan-fried onion dip ($6).
For the main course, my guest chose the Beef Stout "Pot Pie" ($14; presumably, the quotation marks are to denote that the dish is more accurately a hearty, braised beef stew topped with a puff pastry shell) and I chose the Butternut Squash Ravioli ($12) - homemade ravioli stuffed with squash and topped with shiitake mushrooms and a sage brown butter. The ravioli was simple, and while the mushrooms had the texture of dried-then-reconstituted mushrooms, whereas fresh would have been a nice touch, we both happily cleaned our plates. Additional dinner items include Chicken ProvenÁal ($12), Nick Ryan's Hot Brown ($11), and Shrimp and Grits ($14). The lunch menu contains many of the same items, only in the $7-11 range, and burgers, catfish sandwiches and homemade veggie burgers are available for lunch and dinners. Though we were both comfortably full after the meal, curiosity got the best of us and we ordered the dessert that the menu claims "you need to try it to believe": deep fried Oreo cookies with vanilla ice cream ($5). I will leave it at that.
The establishment has only one public room, serving the dual function of bar and dining room, and between its instant popularity as a social gathering spot and the tables being arranged relatively close to one another, Nick Ryan's might not be your best bet for a private or intimate dinner. That said, it makes a great destination, whether it's a special occasion or if you are just in the vicinity and looking for a convenient spot to grab a bite.
Our meal, which included four adult beverages, came to $83 prior to tip.