Lexington, KY - Following suit from a family of restaurants that includes Woodford County staples Wallace Station and Holly Hill Inn, Windy Corner Market - the most recent venture of lauded Bluegrass chef Ouita Michel - is a true Kentucky treasure. Equal parts country charm and southern sophistication, the one-room restaurant is nestled in horse country on the corner of Bryan Station and Muir Station Roads, about 10 miles outside of downtown Lexington.
In many ways, Windy Corner is a nod to simpler times -
the menu is written on a chalkboard above the counter, the shelves along the wall are stocked with jams, specialty relishes, homemade soaps and other sundries for sale. However, a closer inspection of the menu reveals an added layer of culinary finesse. While the lunch menu is fairly simple (po-boys, burgers and salads), the details of each specialty item shows the touch of a restaurateur who goes the extra mile.
I made the lovely country trek for lunch on a recent Tuesday, and both my guest and I were surprised to see every spot in the parking lot taken, and a line at the counter about 10 people deep - though given the success of the similarly themed Wallace Station as a destination cafË, perhaps we shouldn't have been. The line moved quickly, and we were greeted by a friendly and knowledgeable manager who took our order at the counter, quick to provide recommendations and comments of encouragement about our selections. With so much on the menu that we were eager to try, we over-ordered, starting with the appetizers Fried Sweet Banana Pepper Rings ($5.95) and Nancy's Bourbon County Lamb Meatballs ($7.95). The meatballs, which included the surprising addition of raisins, Middle Eastern spices and a barbecue dipping sauce, were divine.
While we probably could have stopped there, we couldn't resist trying the restaurant's signature po-boys -- my guest ordered the Kentucky Boy (a decadent regional combination of pulled barbecue pork, fried pickles and beer cheese, $8.95) and I chose the Fried Oyster Po-Boy (six oysters battered in Weisenberger Mill cornmeal and topped with remoulade, $12.95). Both sandwiches were of a healthy proportion, and bursting with flavor. The oysters were perfectly fried, and I found myself eating every bite of the sandwich's innards despite the fact that I was beyond full - perhaps the most sincere complement one can pay a chef. The Kentucky Boy was not something I would have chosen for myself, being generally averse to pickles, and while my guest enjoyed it, it was perhaps a bit of a rich choice for a hot summer afternoon. It should be noted that any of the po-boys can be made into a wrap, and that the menu includes a handful of entree salad options as well. Also worth mentioning are the sides, which the kitchen has mastered -
I opted for the "healthy grain salad," a delicious combination of quinoa, barley, wild rice and cranberries, while my guest chose the vinegar-based cole slaw.
With a recently expanded dinner menu that includes a different special every evening (see their website for the entire list, which includes Shrimp-n-Grits on Tuesdays and slow-cooked local pork ribs on Saturdays), Windy Corner has quickly established its place as a must-visit local destination restaurant.
The ambience is casual and comfortable, and lunch for two (which included way more food than we could handle, plus a couple of soft drinks), came to $40.80 before tax and tip. Most sandwiches are in the $8 -
10 range, and wine, beer and a selection of delectable pastries, cookies and other sweet treats are available as well.
Windy Corner Market
4595 Bryan Station Rd.
(859) 294-9338
www.windycornermarket.com