Early Saturday morning, it began. One by one, tents rose and tables unfolded. Piles of parsnips and pots of herbs appeared. Hand-painted birdhouses swung in the breeze. The slanted morning sunlight illuminated glass jars of honey. After nearly five months of selling indoors at Victorian Square, the Lexington Farmers' Market made its annual open-air debut at the downtown Vine Street location on April 12th.
As every year, there are offerings of fruits, vegetables, sweets, crafts and flowers. A few of the vendors are familiar faces to those who shop the market.
Mary Tyler, a.k.a. "The Peach Lady," stood behind a legion of red tomatoes that she and her son, Bobby Tyler, secured from a Florida grower. By her own estimation, she began selling produce at the market 23 years ago. Though there are some vendors who sell exclusively Kentucky-grown produce, Tyler's Deep South peaches are always a crowd favorite.
Further down the sidewalk along Vine Street, Paw Paw Plantation's booth boasts roots and rocks. "It tastes how it smells," said Roland McIntosh of the Powell County farm after producing sassafras root. He reached deep into his pocket, pulled out a pocketknife, and trimmed off a sliver of the root. "That's what people used to make root beer out of," he continued.
Homemade breads and slabs of agate-the official "state rock" of Kentucky-also sat upon his table. As a hobby, McIntosh scours creeks for the rock. And, with a diamond cutter, he slices the agate to reveal the kaleidoscope of earthy colors and crystals within.
At the other end of the market, the booth manned by the olive oil aficionados at Olivia Bella is bustling. Crowds gather to taste a bite of rustic bread doused in a peppery Umbrian olive oil that can be purchased at Olivia Bella's 406 S. Broadway storefront.
Nearby, another vendor offers a spoonful of Red Velvet ice cream-courtesy of Chaney's Dairy Barn in Bowling Green. This concoction contains blissful bites of red velvet cake and chocolate chunks.
Stationed behind the young tomato plants he brought to sell, Steve Shepperson of Steve's Plants in Fork Land, chatted about the role of the Lexington Farmers' Market in the community. "It's important to support our agricultural community; it's important to keep our money at home," he said. Jeff Dabbelt, manager of the Lexington Farmers' Market, walked up and chimed in. He emphasized that when consumers support local producers that the environment, as well as the economy, benefits. In Animal, Vegetable, Miracle: A Year of Food Life, Barbara Kingsolver offers a specific-not to mention startling-example of what Dabbelt meant. "If every U.S. citizen ate just one meal a week (any meal) composed of locally and organically raised meats and produce, we would reduce our country's oil consumption by over 1.1 million barrels of oil every week."
Some shop the market for a cause, or for convenience, others to support the local economy and still others for the atmosphere and fun-most days, in addition to shopping, at least a few musicians and artists provide their own fare in the form of entertainment. It's a great community scene and one which often boasts the true arrival of spring. Check it out.
The Lexington Farmers' Market will be open every Saturday on Vine Street between South Mill and Maxwell streets until Nov. 29. It opens at 7 a.m. and closes when vendors sell out.
On Sunday, the Market opens at 10 a.m. on Southland Drive near Slone's Grocery. On Tuesday and Thursday, vendors sell on the corner of South Broadway and Maxwell streets starting at 7 a.m. These markets also stay open until vendors sell out.
Vendor Spotlight: Susan Miller
Knowing a farmer's story often fosters intrigue in his or her goods, so I made plans to visit one of the market's vendors, Susan Miller of Bleugrass Chevre, at her farm in Clark County.
Two stark-white babies pranced out to greet us as we walked towards her barn. Inside, Miller's three breeds of goats-Nubians, Saanens, and LaManchas-lounged and played together. When Miller leaned forward to receive a kiss from her goat Honey Bee (they all have names), it was hard to imagine she'd ever had another line of work; yet for 30 years, Miller worked as a food writer. For a short time, she also devoted her days to antiquing. Seven years ago, when Miller was in the business, it was far from thriving in the wake of the 9-11 terrorist attack. So, one afternoon when a friend mused, "Wouldn't you just like to run away and become an artisan cheesemaker?" Miller didn't deliberate.
Off the two friends went-off to learn how to make cheese at the New England Cheese Supply Company in Ashfield, Mass. Upon returning, Miller vowed to continue making cheese. There was only one problem: no licensed goat dairy existed in the area. Her solution? Buy goats. Establish a dairy.
For four years Miller built her herd and honed her craft. When she received her dairy license last year, she was set to sell cheese. She's been successfully doing just that ever since.
Look for her Bleugrass Chevre sign-a Southern folk art-esque looking wooden goat-leaning against a tree at the Lexington Farmers' Market. Take home some fresh goat cheese, feta, or one of the aged goat cheeses she has experimented with of late. However, should you miss Miller at the Saturday Market on Vine Street, don't count on finding her at the Southland location on Sunday. "I always sell out," she said.
Interested in learning more about making cheese? Participate in the Small Ruminant Dairy Field Day on Saturday, May 24th from 2 to 6 p.m. at Miller Trust Farm on Grimes Mill Road. It is a free workshop. Email Susan Miller at gourmetgoats@msn.com to learn more or to register.