Located in the prime (but capricious) venue on the corner of Short and Limestone streets, the new downtown eatery The Jax touts itself as “a new standard in Lexington’s social diversion.” The concept hinges on casual-yet-elegant ambiance, with mid-priced, globally inspired fare – menu items range from Drunken Noodles ($15.50) to Sicilian Mussels ($16.50) to Beignets ($4.50).
With a motif that centers on the mantra “Eat. Drink. Be.,” The Jax encourages its patrons to relax and indulge. My guest and I took the bait, starting with drinks from the extensive cocktail list. He chose the Moscow Mule ($10), which was served in a copper mug, and I opted for the Cherub Saint ($12), which is a spin-off of the traditional Cherub’s Cup cocktail. Pricey, yes, but both cocktails were expertly concocted with the finest ingredients. Other featured cocktails (or “rituals,” as The Jax refers to their “socializing” beverages) include the Pomaretto ($9), which blends amaretto and Pomegranate liqueur, and the Hemingway Daiquiri ($9, Bacardi, maraschino liqueur, agave nectar and fresh squeezed lemon), as well as more straightforward standards (with top shelf twists) like The Cosmo ($11) and the Old Fashioned ($11).
The Jax’s food menu is divided by “Shareables,” entrees, salads and desserts. The highest priced item (steak and fries) clocks in at $27, but the majority of the menu hovers in the $10 to $20 range. Although no explicit mention is made on the menu of locally sourced produce, by highlighting the use of local products such as Lexington Pasta and Stuarto’s olive oil and vinegar, The Jax essentially seeks to put a fresh, local spin on traditional ethnic fare (braised pork tacos, $11.90; antipasti, $14,50; Salmon Santorini, $16.60).
We started with the pot stickers ($7.50), prepared in a traditional Asian fashion with pork and a sweet chili soy dipping sauce; although they didn’t exactly innovate or improve on the traditional recipe you would expect to find at a local Asian hole-in-the-wall, they were quite tasty. The same could be said for the Drunken Noodles ($15.50), which my guest ordered for his meal. With pan-fried noodles (made just a few blocks north at Lexington Pasta Company), beef, vegetables and a sweet chili sauce, the dish was fresh, filling and flavorful. However, the Havana Sliders – three slider sandwiches featuring seared pork loin, pineapple and jalapeno chutney on brioche buns ($15.50) – stole the show, with a perfect match-up of sweet, spicy and savory. The banana chips that accompanied the dish didn’t do a whole lot for the sliders, but they kept the dish interesting and served as a nice detour from potato chips. After a couple of beers – including the extremely stout New Holland brew Dragon’s Milk ($8.75) – we did not have room for dessert, but the Cuban Plantains (pan-fried and drizzled with caramel sauce, coconut and coconut whipped cream, $6.50) top my wish list for my next visit.
With its sexy, uptown ambiance, lighthearted ‘80s background music, impressive bottled beer selection, bourbon flights and relatively affordable price points, The Jax would be an equally fitting venue for a ladies night out, a drink with a client, or dinner with the ‘rents. Within my initial visit, it was never fully clear to me what it was that the restaurant was trying to be. Upscale or casual? Local or global? Traditional or trendy? The Jax covers all of the above and more, without ever really seeming to hone in on a specific niche – “Be everything all at once” may be a more appropriate mantra. Maybe that’s the point. And maybe that’s OK.
Our total, before tax and tip, came to $85.90.
The Jax
5 p.m. - close Tues. - Sat.
11 a.m. - 2 p.m. and 6 p.m. - close Sun.
101 W. Short St.
(859) 721-2339