“The Historic Kentucky Kitchen” cookbook composed of unearthed recipes
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In early 2010, when Andrew McGraw was working as a student assistant in the archives of the University of Kentucky Special Collections library, he happened upon some treasures that would become the foundation for his first book.
Tucked into handwritten family records, diaries and scrapbook clippings were dozens of old recipes that seemed to be begging to be re-tested and explored.
“Andrew and I both had a shared interest and love of food and started talking about how fun it would be to actually cook those recipes and bring this part of history alive in a tangible way,” said Deirdre Skaggs, associate dean of Special Collections, who co-authored “The Historic Kentucky Kitchen: Traditional Recipes for Today’s Cook” with McGraw.
McGraw and Skaggs formulated a plan to assemble as many recipes as possible from the notes they found, which were authored by 19th and early 20th-century Kentucky cooks. After getting the University Press of Kentucky on board with their cookbook manuscript, their idea started to simmer.
The authors spent two years cooking, researching and writing. The result is a delicious medley of more than 100 classic dishes, complete with descriptions of each recipe’s origin and helpful modernization tips. McGraw and Skaggs, who carefully tested each dish, also provide recipe modifications and substitutions for rare and hard-to-find ingredients.
Accented with interesting historical photographs, “The Historic Kentucky Kitchen” serves up famous Kentuckians’ favorite dishes, such as John Sherman Cooper’s preferred comfort food, eggs somerset, and Lucy Hayes Breckinridge’s “excellent” fried oysters. Other traditional Bluegrass recipes range from skillet cakes to spaghetti with celery and ham.
McGraw feels “The Historic Kentucky Cookbook” sets itself apart due to the fact that it’s not a “chefy” book. “By that I mean the recipes were created or written down by people just interested in giving someone something good to eat without any pretension,” he said. “These are the things they fed their family and friends simply because they thought they tasted good.”
It’s easy to see why McGraw and Skaggs wanted to further explore the culinary world, since they hail from food-loving backgrounds. Skaggs is from Vanceburg, Ky., where her family members were avid gardeners and great cooks.
“I grew up helping my grandmother can fresh vegetables and eating big family meals at holidays,” Skaggs said. “Those meals are special memories for me. Obviously not just the taste and quality of the home-cooked meal, but what it symbolized for my family and the development of whom I have become.”
McGraw moved from Washington D.C. to Lexington as a young boy and has always considered Kentucky his home. “Growing up I can remember how Kentucky foods became ingrained in our family meals,” he said. “Country ham and biscuits became a staple whenever we entertained.”
McGraw, who currently serves as the sous chef at the recently opened County Club restaurant, first became interested in cooking while attending college – he and a group of friends would prepare large meals together every Saturday night since their dining options were limited.
Skaggs and McGraw hope their cookbook will result in others enjoying the fellowship of family and friends over a hearty, home-cooked meal.
“I hope taking these recipes out of the archives and putting them into a contemporary published cookbook will allow this tradition to be carried out for future generations,” Skaggs said. “I hope it will also raise awareness for the general public about the importance of their own family traditions and recipes.”
Added McGraw: “People interested in cooking and history will get something out of this book,” he said. “These recipes have context that reflect the history and tradition of cooking in Kentucky, and this is a state where people like their history and tradition.”
“The Historic Kentucky Kitchen: Traditional Recipes for Today’s Cook”
Deirdre Skaggs and Andrew McGraw will discuss and sign their book beginning at 2 p.m. Nov. 24 at the Morris Book Shop (882 E. High St.).