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Photo by Theresa Stanley
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Photo by Theresa Stanley
When Keeneland’s fall meet kicks off this month, the historic racetrack’s nine kitchens and 20 menus will be under the fresh hands of new executive chef and San Diego transplant Marc Therrien – and according to Keeneland president and CEO Bill Thomason, the flavor of Keeneland has never been better.
“You can’t help but get excited about food when [Therrien] talks about a specific ingredient, cooking technique or favorite dish,” Thomason said. “He is innovative and enthusiastic and brings a fresh approach to our food and beverage service.”
Therrien first visited Kentucky in January of this year; two months later he had moved here and was settling into his new role as Keeneland’s executive chef and food and beverage director. During the spring meet, the chef’s task was primarily to absorb the atmosphere, learning quickly about the importance of tradition at Keeneland.
“I’m very conscious of what Keeneland’s about,” Therrien said. “I’m not bringing California here, but I bring my experience, and I want to keep that respect. Burgoo and bread pudding I don’t touch – they are staples and memories, really. People coming here 20 years ago had that burgoo; a son with his father. He wants to come back here now; and as soon as he tastes that, it brings him right back to childhood ... That is what is sacred to these people. That’s what they want and I wouldn’t change that.”
Therrien is also mindful to achieve a balance of the classics with a fresh perspective. Born in Massachusetts, Therrien’s earliest memory of cooking is at 5 years old. He would “cook” toy blocks for his stuffed animals and spend time with his mother and grandma in the kitchen. At the age of 15, he began his professional cooking career, under the mentorship of famed Kennedy chef Neil Connolly. Therrien honed his skills at various East Coast restaurants and hotels before moving to San Diego to work at the luxury destination hotel La Costa Resort & Spa, where he became the banquet chef. Home to the Chopra Center for Wellness, La Costa has long been a Hollywood sanctuary for rejuvenation. Therrien became highly trained in Ayurvedic cooking as executive chef. This year, Therrien moved to lead another world class facility, Keeneland – bringing with him a few essential ingredients.
“At La Costa I learned respect for ingredients and people,” he said. Walking through the Keeneland Sales Pavilion on a busy September sales day, Therrien noticeably greeted every kitchen staff member, checking with them each to make sure they had the tools they needed to be successful that day. Therrien knows it is a team effort to produce the world class dining experience Keeneland fans expect, and strives to inspire his staff to cook well and his patrons to eat well at home.
“Chef Marc cares about the food and the staff,” said Marcia Pulcini, public dining room manager and veteran Keeneland employee. “I’m excited to come to work everyday.”
In addition to the classics, Keeneland dining rooms’ fall menus will feature seasonal dishes with regional appeal, including bourbon brined pork loin, roasted butternut squash soup and pickle chips with bacon jam and aioli. Lexington Pasta products will be served in the dining rooms, and every menu will feature gluten-free options, sourced from local bakery Gluten Free Miracles, as well as vegan dishes. During special events and by client request, chef Therrien is ready to craft a menu that reaches into his California cuisine repertoire.
“Seasons and sustainability are important to me,” he said.
Therrien also leads the beverage program and is thrilled to create new events at Keeneland. After visiting Maker’s Mark, Woodford Reserve and Castle & Key distilleries, he said he hopes to host a series of bourbon-inspired dinners, featuring multi-course menus with pairings narrating each course.
On a personal note, Therrien noted that the community has greeted him with open arms, and that balance between his professional life and personal time has returned to his life. He has been enjoying Lexington’s craft breweries, spending time with his family and dogs at parks close to home and practicing bass guitar for an hour each day.
“Quality of life is important to me now,” Therrien said. “I love that everything is just a few minutes away – it allows me to have free time, and I can be at the airport in three minutes.”
Keeneland’s fall racing meet kicks off Friday, Oct. 7, with races taking place Wed.-Sun. in October through Oct. 29. For more information on Keeneland’s dining facilities, visit www.keeneland.com.