Smithtown Seafood’s Chef Agnes Marrero. Photo furnished
Agnes Marrero’s journey to Kentucky is one rooted in serendipity, human connection and a desire to cook that’s been burning inside her since she was five. The Puerto Rican chef first explored Lexington during a 1997 trip to visit family in Kentucky, and immediately fell in love with the city.
Upon moving here, the former Culinary Institute of America student secured a job with Jonathan Lundy to work at his restaurants a la Lucie, Pacific Pearl and Roy & Nadines. Through those gigs Marrero met chef Ouita Michel, a kindred spirit, and she started working with Michel as a chef in 2013 at Smithtown Seafood. Thirteen years later, she remains executive chef of the casual seafood eatery, serving classic po’ boys and seafood platters and creative salads.
Learn more about Marrero in the latest installment of our next ‘Culinary Quick Six’ series below, and see her recipe for a favorite Caribbean potato salad on the following page.
What stands out to you about Lexington and Kentucky compared to the other places you’ve worked?
One of the things that attracted me to Lexington was the access to fresh produce. Being in an agriculturally rich state means that produce does not have a middle man, and I love the way that we can connect farmers to customers through cooking. Ouita Michel has done a great job promoting farmers and made-from-scratch concepts, which was also very attractive to me as a chef.
What’s your favorite hidden gem in Lexington?
I don’t go out much because I enjoy my cooking at home — my own hidden gem! — but there a few places I really enjoy [which include] Kentucky Native Cafè, Martine’s Pastries, El Rancho Tapatio, Tachibana, Al’s Bar and a Bloody Mary on a Sunday morning at Winchell’s.
What’s the most memorable meal you have ever had?
Some of the best meals come with the best memories, like New Year’s Eve in 2003. I knew it was the last time I’d cook for my mamma, so we all dressed up and had a beautiful evening. And then in 2023, in Perugia, Italy, we were welcomed by the chef of Ristorante Altromondo for an incredible evening.
What’s your favorite cookbook?
“Cocina Criolla” by Carmen Aboy de Valldejuli — it’s a Puerto Rican staple.
If you can only eat one meal forever, what would it be?
My mamma’s arroz con pollo.
What’s your go-to karaoke song?
I don’t typically do karaoke, but I like to dance and sing at my house to anything from classic to oldies, Cuban Salsa, Bad Bunny, protest and social commentary music!
Click here for Chef Marrero's Caribbean Potato Salad recipe!
Smithtown Seafood’s Chef Agnes Marrero. Photo furnished