Lexington, KY - The new J. Morse Bistro on Vine is a welcome addition to the downtown Lexington restaurant lineup. Located in the structure that housed the Mexican restaurant Tonio's for many years at the southwest corner of Vine Street and Limestone, the owners went to great lengths to transform the space from chips and salsa into filet mignon and gruyere gratin - a successful metamorphosis achieved with white table cloths and extensive remodeling.
The menu is a quick, one-page affair with a few appetizers, about a dozen entrÈe selections and four salads to choose from.
Appetizers, priced between $8 and $12, include tenderloin medallions, scallops, prawns, fried green tomatoes, crab cake, grilled flat bread pizza (changes daily), a cheese board and mini bison burgers (made with local meats and served with havarti and apricot-jalapeno chutney).
Entrees, priced between $12 for the pasta (bow tie or fettuccine with asiago alfredo or pesto sauce and a selection of optional meats) and $33 for the lobster tail, include lamb shanks, bourbon glazed pork chops, chicken caprese, veal (marsala or picatta), mahi mahi, duck breast, a filet mignon and a 12 oz. bone in ribeye. Each entrÈe (except for the pasta) comes with an accompanying potato (gruyere gratin or garlic new potatoes) and the daily vegetable (the daily vegetable can be substituted for asparagus and a Hollandaise sauce for a slight up-charge).
Salads aren't included with the meal, and the options include a house, tomato and wilted spinach salad, as well as a classic Caesar, which comes with the option of being made tableside from scratch. (The tableside Caesar tradition is carried over from the Coach House, which was run by the Morse family from 2001-2004.)
For an appetizer, my guest and I ordered the scallops, which came wrapped in apple-smoked bacon and disappeared quickly. We also ordered the tableside classic Caesar, and our server mixed and mashed the dressing ingredients (from egg yolks to anchovy slivers) and added the lettuce right in front of us. For dinner, my guest ordered the veal marsala, but because of a previous night's potato indulgence, asked to substitute the potatoes with some pasta. I ordered the braised lamb shank, which came topped with a sweet cranberry sauce, gruyere gratin and the daily vegetable - broccoli.
Both plates of food were very generously proportioned, and neither of us was admitted to the clean plate club that night. The veil cutlets were excellent and the lamb fell right off the bone with no effort.
Our bill, prior to tipping, came to $93.11 and included an appetizer, salad, two entrees, a dessert (crËme brulle) and a couple of adult beverages -
the restaurant has a full bar and a safe wine list with about three dozen options.
The name of the restaurant is a versatile moniker for the crew that runs the eatery: Jerry Morse and sons, whose names all start with the letter "J." While the space does exude a formal atmosphere, Jerry has added some personal touches - be sure to check out his old issues of "Lexington Views," as well as an eclectic collection of drink stirrers, hanging on the walls.
J. Morse Bistro also serves daily, counter-ordered lunch specials Monday through Friday. The selections are normally a choice of comfort foods and two vegetables for $6.95.