"The Critchfield family's longstanding experience in the meat business started on the back of a bicycle more than half-a-century ago.
That was the mode of transport used by the late Amos Critchfield when he started his career, delivering meat for the Danville Public Market. During the 1940s, he worked as a meat cutter for Kroger's. He met his wife, Opal, at the Irvine Kroger's, where she also worked in the meat department. Later the Critchfields worked in the meat department at the Boss Food Store on North Limestone.
Little did they know at the time that they were sharpening their skills to build a family legacy that would employ three generations and serve the Lexington market for 37 years, and counting.
In September 1969, Amos and Opal Critchfield started their own business on North Limestone, just south of New Circle Road. Before the Critchfields took over the building, it had been a Greyhound bus stop, a garage, a grocery, and a hardware store. The design of the building left much to be desired, but customers liked the store's old-fashioned atmosphere.
When Critchfield's moved to Zandale Center, in April 1987, some customers complained. "We still get comments about our moving," said Larry Critchfield, the oldest of Amos and Opal's four sons.
Larry and his three younger brothers, Harold, Mike, and Mark, run Critchfield's now. Wearing trademark red aprons just as their dad did, Larry and Mike are in charge of the 4,000-square-foot retail store. Harold and Mark manage Critchfield's separate wholesale division, which is located on Danforth Drive.
The four brothers aren't the only family members working in the business. Their two sisters, Gail and Sandra, and Larry's wife, Brenda, work in the store during the holiday season. The third generation of Critchfields is involved, too. Several grandchildren have worked in the business part-time while in high school or college. Larry's son Anthony is the head baker, and uses some of his grandmother Opal's recipes. His older brother, Amos, and Harold's stepson, Warren Hendricks, work full time in the wholesale division.
Critchfield's is busiest during the holiday season. The 15 to 20 employees work so many hours that there's nearly always someone there, around the clock. The store sells several thousand of its famous country hams, mostly at this time of year. Assorted party trays and caramel-frosted (blackberry) jam cakes are also big sellers. Customers can buy a completely prepared holiday dinner, or just one or two side dishes.
Opal Critchfield began baking jam cakes first, then added other bakery items when customers asked her to. Responding to customer demand has also meant that the store carries more items, expanded its lunch takeout menu, and offers grilled lunches outside every Friday during summer.
As the business grew, the Zandale store was no longer large enough for both retail and wholesale divisions. The Critchfields rented space elsewhere for wholesale, then moved the operation into a new 15,000-square-foot building in November 1997. Mark Critchfield said that since the new wholesale facility opened, "Our growth has been phenomenal - double digit rate."
Now Critchfield's is making inroads beyond Kentucky. The company recently joined All Kitchens, a wholesalers' group. Soon Critchfield's customers will be able to order dry goods, kitchenware, and other items, along with their meats and grocery items.
About 35 employees work in wholesale. They process orders and deliver meats and other products to hotels, restaurants, groceries, schools, convenience stores, and other food service operations within a 150-mile range of Lexington.
Critchfield's belongs to the Kentucky Cattlemen's Association. The federally inspected wholesale operation processes some beef for Kentucky's Green River Company, but most beef Critchfield's sells comes from out of state. Mark Critchfield explained that "we don't have a constant supply of Kentucky beef, enough to service all of our customers." He added that not having an in-state slaughter facility makes it harder for Kentucky beef producers to compete financially.
The Critchfields have seen the meat business change over the years. "Everything comes in vacuum-packed now," said Larry Critchfield. The vacuum packaging and added gases deter bacterial growth. Critchfield's meat cutters then cut the hindquarters and forequarters, aka primal cuts, into individual cuts, to order if a customer asks. Large supermarkets receive more and more meat precut. Without onsite cutting, a customer who wants a special cut is out of luck.
Critchfield's gives instructions for cooking country hams, and the employees gladly answer questions, but "people don't cook the way they used to," lamented Larry Critchfield. He predicted that all groceries will be selling "more and more foods that are precooked or all ready to cook."
Asked for his predictions, Mark Critchfield said that the company wants to grow at a manageable rate, "be a constant in Lexington, and possibly open another retail location."
Critchfield's retail store in the Zandale Shopping Center, 2260 Nicholasville Road, is open Mon-Sat 7:00 a.m.-7:00 p.m. Critchfield's Wholesale Division, 255-6021. The Web site is www.critchfieldmeats.com.
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