Do you know who raised the meat that you eat? Do you care? Around the nation there is a growing trend to eat fresher foods that have been grown within a one or two hours' drive from your home. The number of farmers markets nationally, and locally, is growing, but these markets aren't just selling tomatoes, corn, and pumpkins. More and more animal products are making their way into small markets, both due to increased supply and increased demand. Central Kentucky farmers are still learning how to accommodate these changes so they can satisfy their customers' needs while also satisfying the bottom line.
Mike Critchfield of Critchfield Meats, sees and hears Kentucky consumers playing a part in this trend. According to Critchfield, the demand for local products is greater than in past years. He thinks this is partially due to the influence of the marketing efforts of the Kentucky Department of Agriculture's Kentucky Proud program. However, consumer's concerns about E-coli also play a role.
However, as fortunate as it is to have that demand, it is harder for the smaller farmers to meet such demand at the price points of the retail market. With no USDA-certified slaughtering plant in Fayette County, or any contiguous counties, meat producers must spend time and money to travel to plants, where they will also incur processing fees. Because many of these farmers produce animals without growth hormones, they also realize less saleable poundage per animal, making for more effort without necessarily realizing more of a payoff.
Some of those farmers are doing well; some are not.
The Face of Local Farming
Nan and Henry Riekert own Serenity Hill Farm in Jessamine County. They raise lambs, goats, ducks, geese, hogs, chickens, and vegetables on just over 40 acres. They have farmed for 13 years. Last year they sold out of lambs and went to other farmers to pool their products in order to meet the demand. Henry thinks the increase is due to immigration. Members of the Muslim and Latino communities buy live animals and do their own processing. These consumers really like the freshness of the local products. The Riekerts also believe that many consumers prefer to buy directly from the farmer because they like the farm-to-table connection that they are able to make. In addition, more consumers are becoming educated about food safety, production, and flavor, and some may prefer local producers for these reasons. Word then spreads among satisfied customers and sales increase.
Nan and Henry have three boys ages 7, 10, and 12, and the family farm is unable to support all of them, despite increased sales. Nan continues to work outside the home for the Fayette County Public School system to supplement the farm income and to receive the medical benefits that her job as a school counselor provides.
Marti and Curtis Congleton operate Deuce Springs Farm in Woodford County. Duece Springs serves as the headquarters of Congleton Freezer Meat, which provides every cut of meat possible from cattle that are fed only what is grown on the farm, with the exception of a protein source. To ensure that their cattle receive the proper nourishment, the Congletons purchase grains and soybean meal from area distillers as an additional protein source.
Marti said more and more, consumers want to know where their food comes from and how it is being produced. This consumer interest has turned into a markedly increased demand for meats originating at Deuce Springs.
The increase in demand has helped, but to further offset farm expenses, Marti received a cost-share marketing grant from the Kentucky Department of Agriculture (funded by the Kentucky Cattlemen's Association). Through this effort, which provides advertising and promotional assistance, Marti and Curtis have been able to take their business to a higher level. Selling their steaks has never been a problem (they are regulars at the Woodford County Farmers Market and also sell by word of mouth), but hamburger sales have lagged in the past. Through this grant program, the Congletons were given the financial support needed to reach out to many local organizations such as the Boy Scouts and other civic groups who care about supporting local farmers, but weren't sure how to connect with them. Now the Congletons have a steady demand for their hamburger, as well as a "Steak of the Month Club."
"It isn't farmland without farmers," said Marti, who values the production of a safe food source, but also the preservation of green space.
Unfortunately, the picture isn't quite as rosy for some. Katherine Hysinger co-owns Flag Hill Farm in Mt. Vernon with her husband, Rick. The Hysingers are struggling to stay in business. They own 200 brood cows and 36 pigs, none of which are given added antibiotics, steroids, or hormones. Currently, the Hysingers' primary retail outlets are the Farmers Market in Richmond, Ky., and the Blue Grass Farmers Market in Lexington. However, they currently have 1,000 pounds of processed meats for which they haven't found enough buyers.
The glut of supply and lack of demand in this case has multiple causes. Due in part to the Hysingers' rural location, getting her products in front of the consumers who seek them has been challenging. Katherine said calls she has made to retailers haven't been returned, making marketing her product very difficult. Between gas prices, travel time, and the basic knowledge of marketing to a city in which they do not live, expenses have outrun income.
Making Inroads
Bob Perry, currently employed by the University of Kentucky, is a pro at employing the use of Kentucky grown products. Bob was a chef with the Kentucky Dinner Train before joining the Kentucky State Park system where he implemented the use of foods raised within the state's borders. Now Perry is working with UK as coordinator of the food systems initiative in the institutional use of locally grown foods. Perry keeps apprised of local producers and their offerings, and shared this list of local meat producers and advances:
• Gateway Branded Meat in Mt. Sterling is a group of cattlemen who sell their locally raised beef at the Gateway Stockyards.
• Scott Jolly in Cadiz has both a farm and a store on Highway 68 on the way to Lake Barkley. Jolly finishes his own cattle then sells his own meats almost as quickly as they are available for purchase. Jolly is also the operator of the caf√à at the new marina at Lake Barkley, where his hamburgers have become extremely popular.
• John Medley of Happy Hollow Farms in Springfield, Ky., continues to expand his pork products; his bratwurst and pork burgers are particular favorites.
• Colcord Farms in Paris, Ky., is doing good business in grass-fed beef; their product is sold at the Lexington Farmers Market and the Good Foods Co-op.
• Georgetown's Elmwood Stock Farm produces the only certified organic beef, which they sell at the Lexington Farmers' Market and to numerous restaurants. They also sell lamb, chickens, eggs, and in season, turkeys.
Perry said, "I have been working on a hamburger project that would pool several producers' large cuts and make a high-quality restaurant-packaged hamburger patty, allowing the individual farmers to sell the choice cuts themselves where there is more profit. We hope to be able to start this project soon and begin selling to restaurants across the state."
Amber Huffman, a chef/caterer based in Lexington, is also a recent conert to using local meats. She is particularly fond of Colcord Farms' hamburger meat, which she said was delicious and of such fine quality. She said buying locally grown "tastes so good and gives the consumer that warm fuzzy feeling." According to Amber, even in casual restaurants in France, people want to know where their beef comes from. They cherish both the taste and the place. Maybe beef consumption in Kentucky is moving in this direction.
No article about local meat would be complete without mentioning the new component of agriculture-aquaculture. According to the United States Department of Agriculture, aquaculture is a $1 billion industry with an 11.7% increase in sales over the past seven years.
"Kentucky is in a great position to add value to these statistics. We are in a perfect climate and logistically situated to raise hybrid striped bass, large mouth bass, trout, catfish, and prawn," said Angela Caporelli of the Kentucky Department of Agriculture. "But even on the local level, top restaurants in Lexington and Louisville are seeking out locally grown, high-quality meat and seafood products. The KDA works with producers to sell directly to the consumers as much as possible. This is being promoted through direct farmer/restaurant building, improved farmers market management, and advertising programs and rewards through the 'Restaurant Rewards Program' for purchasing locally. It is all about serving the highest quality, locally grown meats, seafood, and produce to your customers and family. And if people don't get what that means to the ones they love, want to serve, and the farming style and beauty they want to protect and prosper, then they never will and that is a shame. Without supporting local farms, they will soon go away and we are putting ourselves at risk of increased dependence on foreign countries to feed our families. That is not a situation that I want to see."
So consumers, if you don't know who grows your meat, find out. Ask questions and further increase the demand of Kentuckians to eat Kentucky-grown products.