Bill Straus
TJ Cox, left, and Jonathan Lundy outside Corto Lima
Chef Jonathan Lundy got his start as a restaurateur with the upscale Jonathan at Gratz Park. TJ Cox began working as a bartender at Jonathan in 2007 and then as its general manager in 2014, which was the same year Lundy closed the restaurant after a 16-year run.
In early 2017, the pair partnered to launch Corto Lima at the corner of Limestone and Short streets in downtown Lexington. The restaurant offers a modern spin on Latin cuisine, featuring tortillas and tamales made from house-ground masa and some of the city’s best tacos and margaritas.
More recently, Lundy and Cox served in a consulting role to help develop and open ItalX, an upscale contemporary Italian restaurant on the ground floor of Lexington Marriott City Center.
Like many in the restaurant industry, Lundy and Cox faced formidable challenges during the pandemic. While occupancy restrictions have returned to normal, record inflation, staffing and supply shortages still beleaguer the business.
In this lightly edited interview, the duo reflects on this new set of challenges and shares their insights into effectively launching a new restaurant concept and thoughts on Lexington’s evolving dining scene.
How have inflation, labor and supply shortages affected the business in recent years?
Cox: Our management has stayed consistent, but some of our entry-level sta. have fluctuated. Before the pandemic, we had 52 full-time and part-time employees. We’re back up to 40 now.
Lundy: As for product availability and inflation, that’s something we’re actively combating.
Cox: We’ve got to be diligent in shopping around, now more than ever, to find the best quality products for the price. You can compare prices online a lot easier now than when we first started Corto Lima, but in times like these, when inflation is fierce, simply raising prices or buying cheaper isn’t always enough. Margins are already tight in the industry, so when something like Roma tomatoes abruptly jumps 25 percent in price, it makes a big difference. Still, we prioritize customers over costs.
We also strive to provide a positive work environment for our employees. We understand that inflation isn’t their fault, so we’ve implemented a starting wage of $15 an hour.
They’re giving us their time, so it’s vital that we value that commitment and treat them with respect because they’re just as responsible for the restaurant’s success as we are. We also pay for employees to have monthly gym memberships to work on living healthier lifestyles and being their best selves.
You all recently helped launch ItalX, although your involvement has now ceased. What led to you leaving the project?
Lundy: That was a very well-funded endeavor that we were brought in to help get o. the ground. It was my first time being involved in anything like that, so the learning curve was steep, but it was a rewarding experience. We wanted to get back to focusing solely on our baby, Corto Lima. That being said, we’re still constantly scouting out the next potential business opportunity to pursue.
What do you look for when planning to launch a new restaurant concept?
Cox: You’ve first got to look at the market, in this case, Lexington, to see what the culinary scene is missing or lacking. That’s what ItalX was born out of.
"I think the community has also started to realize their power in influencing what restaurants come to — and ultimately stay — in town. Their business determines what stays and goes." —Jonathan Lundy
Lundy: I think the community has also started to realize their power in influencing what restaurants come to — and ultimately stay — in town. Their business determines what stays and goes. It further compels us to pay attention to their feedback and what’s going on in the market to see what those fluctuations are while also observing larger markets for new trends that could catch on here.
What are your thoughts on Lexington’s dining scene?
Lundy: I think there’s always room to grow. Lexingtonians are a well-traveled bunch who get out to places like Cincinnati, Louisville, Indianapolis, Nashville and other nearby cities. They see trends and new concepts emerging in those hubs and expect a similar diversity and quality back home. While we’re still far behind cities like Nashville and Asheville, the growth in Lexington’s food scene in the past 20 years has been incredible. Our block alone is home to Minglewood, Sidebar, Oscar Diggs, Bar Ona, Lussi Brown Co.ee Bar, Pearl’s and us — all of which o.er something different from one another. We notice many of our patrons visiting a couple of these other spots on the block before or after coming to see us for drinks or a small bite.
Our city’s food scene has grown a lot, but there’s still plenty of room. I look forward to seeing what our restaurant community is like in another 20 years.