Lexington, KY - Having worked in fine dining for five years during what we will call my "formative drinking years," my progression with wine appreciation was perhaps a bit inverted. By the time I was legally allowed to drink, I was already acquainted with wine being an art as much as a beverage. In the upscale restaurant setting, one comes to know the presentation of wine - it is a delicacy, a conversation starter, a centerpice - and despite the fact that many of the bottles I served cost more than half a month's rent, my interest in seeking out good wine was piqued at an relatively early age.
In my fine dining tenure, I became intimate with the fact that for many diners, wine takes front and center at the dinner table, even moreso than the food, and also the extent that the flavors of a meal can be enhanced when carefully paired with the perfect glass of wine. I caught on to the well-kept secret that price does not necessarily dictate taste - I am personally just as apt to love a $7 glass of Malbec as a $200 bottle of Bordeaux, and I'm actually just as likely to scrunch my nose at either. But perhaps most importantly, I discovered that while wine can certainly be a cavalier, highbrow hobby, by no means does it have to be - there are so many wonderful wines out there to behold, for every budget, taste and style.
With these things in mind, we decided to include the following Wine Guide in our annual Food Issue this year. I have no doubt that many of our readers are much better versed in wine than I am, which is why I enlisted the help of local wine experts, including wholesale distributors and store managers and owners. The guide is geared toward those readers who enjoy a glass of wine but maybe don't feel they have have the expertise, the refined palette or the disposable income to be a true wine connoisseur. We've included some recommendations for holiday entertaining, as well as an overview of what we felt were the most popular and basic varieties of wine, including basic characteristics, recommended bottles and complementary food items. (Inevitably, some of my personal favorite varieties were left out - Petite Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Semillon - as well as some wonderful blends.)
To be sure, this guide is merely a starting point - a grave simplification of a deeply layered and complex subject. In compiling this information, I was reminded again and again how it is that industry publications devote entire volumes and issues to the topic of wine and still leave much unsaid. We can talk about the basic flavor characteristics of a grape variety, but what does that say about the texture and finish? We can talk about the soil and climate in which a grape was grown, but what does that say about the vitner who tilled that soil, the aging and fermentation processes? We can discuss how a wine complements a bite of prime rib, but paired with a gourmet cheese, it may take on entirely different characteristics. It's not any singular characteristic of wine, but the combination of all of these that leave so much to be discovered.
As is true with the process of winemaking, there's no better recipe to discovering a wine you love than trial and error. Wine is not an absolute science, as Gary Dorinberg (owner of the recently opened Chevy Chase neighborhood wine market Corner Wine) mentioned in a recent conversation, and at the risk of seemingly contradicting the guide that follows, it should be pointed out that as we all have different palettes, we all take something completely different from a taste of wine.
Further, we can discuss tannins and "jamminess" all day long, but until it is experienced, all this is nothing but lip service. I encourage you to peruse this guide for some ideas, then get thee to the nearest (locally-owned) wine shop and dig in for yourself. Cheers.
Picks from Michael Sorg, wine director for Liquor Barn
ROSE
Characteristics: A far cry from the ubiquitous White Zinfandel, today's dry rosÈ wines offer up crisp and fruity flavors more often associated with red wines, yet with a lighter character and freshness more commonly found in whites. This delicious balancing act makes rosÈ wines a tasteful partner at the dinner table year round.
Recommended bottles: Parrot Mountain RosÈ of Malbec (Argentina) $9.99; Santa Ema Rosado (Chile) $11.99; Montes "Cherub" RosÈ of Syrah (Chile) $15.99
Complementary food pairings: Dry RosÈ wines are quite versatile at the light to medium weight end of the food spectrum, and you will find a particular affinity for some of those spicier, Asian-inspired dishes. Even egg dishes, normally a difficult wine match, find a partner with RosÈ, making quiches and frittatas sing. And grilled "white" pizza with plenty of fresh veggies and herbs - delish!
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Characteristics: The undisputed king of red wines, Cabernet finds a home everywhere in the world, in both vineyards and on dining tables. It is usually medium to full bodied, with ripe red and black fruit flavors and accented by earthy terroir notes and sometimes oak spice; yet the amount of variation within this spectrum can keep you coming back to Cabernet with delicious regularity.
Recommended bottles: San Elias Cabernet Sauvignon (Chile) $6.99; Altosur Cabernet Sauvignon (Argentina) $11.99; Angels Landing Cabernet Sauvignon, Stag's Leap District (California) $19.99
Complementary food pairings: Red meat dishes are the constant standby, but Cabernet can prove to be an adventuresome wine as well. Try it next time with mushroom risotto or perhaps a rare tuna steak for a tasty change of pace.
Picks by John Schweder, founder of Toast of Kentucky (Lexington wine distribution company)
RIESLING
Characteristics: "So many think of Riesling as a syrupy sweet wine, which it can be," Schweder said. "But a dry Riesling is hard to top in flavor and pairing - the flavors are so crisp and bright." Rooted in Germany, the new world is now finding good luck and quality fruit with the Riesling grape as well (even here in Kentucky). Light body with just a hint of yellow and touch of sweetness. Aromas of apple, apricot, honey, pear and grass.
Recommended bottles: Max E from Bernard Eiffel (Germany) $17.95; Evergreen Vineyards "Spruce Goose" (Oregon) $19.95.
Complementary food pairings: Oysters, sautÈed or broiled white fishes, roast pork, poultry.
MERLOT
Characteristics: Though many wine experts agree that its public reputation was all but ruined by the movie "Sideways," in which Paul Giamatti's character, taking his best friend on a disastrous bachelor-party wine tour of Northern California, exclaims "I'm not drinking (expletive) Merlot!" in his typical loose-cannon, temper tantrum fashion, Merlot is a classic grape responsible for many of the finest wines in the world. Blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec, it is one of the components of the classic French Bordeaux. Medium to dark red color, medium body and a soft, round mouthfeel, with the aromas of berry, plum, cherry, cedar, peel and pepper.
Recommended bottles: Trecini Merlot (Russian River Valley) $34.95
Complementary food pairings: Roasted poultry; heavy, meaty pastas; grilled meats; Bleu cheeses.
Picks by Burk Kessenger, owner of Wines on Vine
PINOT GRIGIO/PINOT GRIS
Characteristics: Pinot gris/Pinot grigio (same grape, called different names in different regions) is often thought to be a white mutation of the Pinot noir grape. Heavily produced in Italy and California; growing in popularity in Oregon. Wines made from the Pinot gris grape can vary significantly, but tend to be medium bodied; crisp and citrusy on the palette with nice acidity and floral nose.
Recommended bottles: Cescon Pinot Grigio (Italy) $15.95; Anne Amie (Willamette Valley) $20.95; Avanti Pinot Grigio (Italy) $9.95
Complementary food pairings: Scallops, mussels, turkey, chicken alfredo.
PINOT NOIR
Characteristics: Pinot noir can be one of the most difficult grapes to grow because it requires a long, cool growing season and is susceptible to disease; that said, it can also be one of the most rewarding. A great wine for wine beginners (because of its light body and soft tannins), it can also be highly complex and a favorite for more seasoned wine drinkers. Bright fruit at the palette (cherry and raspberry) with cocoa or vanilla undertones.
Recommended bottles: Morgan Pinot Noir (Monterey) $32.95; Cuvee St. Claire (Napa Valley) $11.95; Red Car Pinot Noir (Sonoma) $49.95; MacMurray Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley) $23.95
Complementary food pairings: Salmon, pork tenderloin, rack of lamb, turkey.
Picks by Gary Dorinberg, owner of Corner Wine
SAUVIGNON BLANC/FUME BLANC
Characteristics: Sauvignon blanc grapes rely on cool weather, which lends a crisp acidity that the wine is known for. Dorinberg describes the punch of the wine as "more like a laser beam than a sledgehammer." Light and dry, with flavors ranging from tropical to grassy. Due to its sandy soil and cool maritime climate, New Zealand has been a particularly popular growing spot for Sauvignon blanc in recent years.
Recommended bottles: Wither Hills (Marlborough) $9; Starborough (Marlborough) $13
Complementary food pairings: Because it is such a light wine, Sauvignon blanc is perfect as an apertif. Hor's d'oevres, roast chicken, roast turkey, seafood.
MALBEC
Characteristics: Like most other varieties, the Malbec grape originates in France, where it is typically seen as a blending grape. Malbec has really taken off in Argentina, where the altitude and warm weather lend a great deal of lushness and full body to the thick-skinned grape. Smoky, earthy undertones with a mÈlange of flavors ranging from spices to berries; smooth, velvety finish.
Recommended bottles: Alamos (Argentina) $10; Layer Cake (Argentina) $15; Altos (Argentina) $12
Complementary food pairings: Prime ribs, strips, sirloins, other cold weather meats. ("Whatever they are eating in Argentina.")
Picks by Krim Boughalem, owner of Wine + Market
CHAMPAGNE
Characteristics: While sparkling wines are produced all over the world, as a rule, only those produced in the Champagne region of France are technically considered Champagne. Made from Chardonnay, Pinot noir and/or Pinot Meunier grapes ("blanc de blanc" means straight Chardonnay grapes; "blanc de noir" means Pinot noir, Pinot Meuneir or a combination of the two), Champagnes display an elegant fruit character and complex flavor. The amount of sugar used determines whether the wine is Brut (very dry), Sec (off-dry), or Demi-Sec (medium-sweet).