Lexington, KY - A new exhibit at the Lexington History Museum explores what our town was like 200 years ago, as citizens of the time looked forward to the second decade of the 19th century. (At this point, the pure historian in us reminds the reader the next decade, in fact, begins in 2011. But why swim upstream against popular belief?)
In 1810, the town boundary was a one-mile radius from the 1806 courthouse that stood on the site of the Lexington History Museum in the block bounded by Main, Cheapside, Short and Upper streets. Within that radius lived more than 4,300 persons, making Lexington the largest city west of the Alleghany Mountains. By contrast, Cincinnati's population was about 2,500, Louisville's 1,350, Nashville's 1,100 and Knoxville's some 700. The 35th largest city in the United States, Lexington ranked alongside Brooklyn, N.Y., and Hartford, Ct., and only slightly smaller than Pittsburgh.
The Fayette County population outside Lexington was about 21,000, making it the most populous county in Kentucky.
About one-third of the town's population was enslaved. Another 6,200 slaves were located in the county. The enslaved population had dramatically increased as the American Indian threat decreased. State law permitted slaves to be away from their residence or workplace for more than four hours with a written pass. Violation was punishable by whipping, rigidly enforced in 1810 after rumors swept the town of a slave rebellion, which did not occur.
Lexington had about 100 free blacks, and a like number lived in the county. Ironically, three free blacks owned slaves. Some free blacks had been manumitted after years of service, while younger ones had purchased their freedom with money earned from side work. Many worked as skilled bricklayers or mechanics. Shopkeepers intermingled with their white counterparts. There may have been some resentment with the competition because in 1808 a state law was passed prohibiting immigration of free blacks to Kentucky.
At the center of town was the courthouse, a relatively massive structure measuring 50 feet by 60 feet and rising three stories with walls three bricks deep. It was topped with a cupola and steeple. Other notable public buildings included the two-story brick Masonic Hall on the northeast corner of Short and Walnut streets (the latter now Martin Luther King Boulevard, and the site that of today's Central Christian Church). The 1808 Presbyterian Church on the corner of Main-Cross (North Broadway) and Second Street was the most impressive church in town with its 104-foot steeple.
The town's prominent citizenry owned the most prominent residences, many in the Colonial Georgian or Federal styles. The Rev. Adam Rankin's 1794 house at 215 West High Street was the oldest two-story frame house in Lexington. (It was moved to the southeast corner of High and Upper streets to make way for urban renewal in the 1970s). The oldest brick house in town was completed in 1796 at 191 North Market Street for Dr. Frederick Ridgely. Another house still standing today is Dr. Walter Warfield's home built in 1806 on the southeast corner of Short and Upper streets. (A restaurant and residence, the mansard roof was added in the 1890s.)
On the town's periphery, early pioneer and merchant Thomas January had an impressive home at what is now 437 West Second Street. The central part of Henry Clay's Ashland villa on Richmond Road was completed in 1810. That same year, merchant and landowner William "Lord" Morton completed his Federal style villa on the east side of North Limestone beyond what is now Fifth Street. (The house is now used for Duncan Park administration. The gate finials are in the Lexington History Museum.) Lord Morton owned the commercial block on Upper between Main and today's Vine Street that was demolished in 2008. Another surviving villa of note is U.S. Sen. John Pope's on Grosvenor Avenue between Rose Street and Arlington Avenue.
Out in the county, Francis Keen built the first plantation-style house in 1805 near today's Keeneland Race Course. Keeneland meticulously restored the house in 2009.
Two developments were undertaken in 1810, one urban, the other rural. For the next decade, several spacious and impressive houses were built around the boundaries of Gratz Park (then "College Lot" and home of Transylvania University.) The second development was advertised as 250 acres off Russell's (Cave) Road. Streets were marked off, but the lots were to be used for woods, crops or livestock, not homes.
Lexington was not yet the "Horse Capital of the World," but horses were definitely part of what defined the town 200 years ago. Racing on Main Street was banned in 1794. The Kentucky Jockey Club was organized in 1797. About eight years later, it opened the Williams' Racetrack on Leestown Road (site of the Lexington Cemetery). Thoroughbreds had been in the region for about 10 years, but there were no "horse farms" as we know them. Breeding was a growing industry, with fees up to $50 "per leap."
Hemp was the cash crop of the day and supported an active rope and hemp bag manufacturing industry. The owner of one of several "ropewalks" in Lexington was John Wesley Hunt, the first millionaire west of the Alleghanies. Founded as a town of shopkeepers, Lexington's commerce still centered on shops and taverns. The Kentucky Hotel, owned by Henry Clay, was the town's largest and located on Short Street behind the courthouse. Another prominent inn was Postlewaite's Tavern, predecessor of the Phoenix Hotel (now Phoenix Park).
In April 1810 the town trustees ordered property owners to repave Main,
Main-Cross and Spring streets - and thus the pothole was born in Lexington.
Brad Cannon, Ph.D. contributed significant research for this article.